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As tourism returns to prepandemic levels across Italy, travelers itching to visit Florence face a delicate dilemma: how to experience the Tuscan capital’s Renaissance grandeur while remaining sensitive to the damage mass tourism inflicts. One solution is to travel outside of the high season, but even in the fall, visitors will face crowds at the Galleria dell’Accademia and at the Uffizi (especially if the latter reopens the long-shuttered Corridoio Vasariano to the public this year, as planned). Even better is to approach Florence not as a historical theme-park, but as a living city, by seeking out lesser-known pockets and new projects — from an ambitious cultural complex to a tiny trattoria run by passionate young Florentines — that will help sustain this city for years to come.

Persons: Florence Organizations: Florence Locations: Italy

☆ The Wind, the Water, the Islands: Exploring Stockholm’s Archipelago
▼ + stars: | 2023-07-25 | by ( Ingrid K. Williams | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

It was 20 minutes into my first Swedish sailing trip on a blazingly sunny morning in late June. When the puttering motor was cut, it was suddenly quiet, just the wind in my face and the sparkling archipelago all around. The sheer magnitude of Stockholm’s archipelago is astounding. “The innermost islands are quite big and populated,” said Jeppe Wikström, a photographer and book publisher who has lived and worked in the archipelago for decades. “The farther out you go, the smaller the islands get, the lower they get.

Persons: I’d, ”, Jeppe Wikström Organizations: New York Locations: Swedish, Kilholmen, Stockholm, Baltic, New

For decades, Copenhagen has been lauded for its design, its food, its dedication to sustainability, even the general good cheer of its residents. But this year, architecture is the focus after UNESCO named the city the World Capital of Architecture for 2023. What that means for visitors is a yearlong slate of events, exhibitions and tours of the city’s most innovative architectural projects. To maximize a trip, travelers this year need two companions. Because one thing that will never change is the Danes’ devotion to cycling, a true joy in a place as bike-friendly (and flat) as Copenhagen on these blissfully long summer days.

Persons: Danes Organizations: UNESCO, Danish Architecture Locations: Copenhagen

☆ 36 Hours in Philadelphia
▼ + stars: | 2023-04-27 | by ( Ingrid K. Williams | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

12:30 p.m. Get the best steakEvery Philadelphian has an opinion about where to get the best cheesesteak, and those of us with family roots in northwestern Roxborough are loyal to Dalessandro’s . Not much has changed at this steak shop since it opened on this corner in 1961, but the pandemic did force a pivot to take-out only, which is still in place. Instead of the usual thinly sliced meat, Dalessandro’s ribeye is finely chopped and suffused with molten cheese (American is standard), and the roll is soft but never soggy. (I like mine topped with marinara.) Take your steak to the leafy Wissahickon Valley Park , a short drive away, where you can eat on a bench beside the creek, then hike on miles of trails winding through the wooded gorge.

☆ 36 Hours in Stockholm
▼ + stars: | 2022-10-13 | by ( Ingrid K. Williams | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: 1 min

Swedes may be missing the long days of summer, but autumn is when Stockholm peaks. Crisp breezes and blazing foliage await visitors, as does the engineering marvel known as Guldbron, or the Gold Bridge, a massive slab of steel that was installed in 2020. Connecting the central islands of Gamla Stan and Södermalm, the bridge is part of an overhaul of the busy Slussen area that won’t be completed until 2026. But the rest of the city is humming with openings, from drinking and dining hotspots to cultural must-sees. And the recent rollout of an e-bike sharing program promises to make this accessible city even more so.

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